Natural Zircon

Zircon’s brilliant luster, fire and bright hues makes it an enjoyable addition to any jewelry collection.

Legends and lore

Zircon has been found in some of the most ancient archaeological sites.

Zircon has appeared in literature and the gem trade under a variety of names including Jargon (Yellow Zircon), Jacinth (Red Zircon), Matara Diamond (White Zircon), Starlite (Blue Zircon), Hyacinth (Blue, Yellow and Red Zircon) and Ligure.

Zircon is first mentioned in the ancient Indian tale of the Kalpa Tree. Described by Hindu poets as the ultimate gift to the gods, it was a bright glowing tree with bejeweled leaves of Zircon.

The gemstone of fiery starlight, Jewish legends say that Zircon was the name of the guardian angel sent to watch over Adam and Eve in the Garden of Eden.

Zircon is mentioned in the Bible (using the name Jacinth for its red variety) as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Zircon is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle Simon.

The Roman historian, Pliny the Elder, compared Blue Zircon’s color to hyacinth flowers.

Traditionally, Zircon is a gem of purity and innocence. Zircon is believed to promote inner peace while providing the wearer with wisdom, honor and riches. Legend also has it that a Zircon’s loss of luster is a warning of imminent danger.

Zircon’s popularity grew dramatically in the 16th century when Italian artisans featured the gem in jewelry designs. In the 1880’s Blue Zircon was widely used in Victorian jewelry.

Just the facts

Although Zircon’s existence predates Cubic Zirconia by centuries, Zircon is often unfairly confused with Cubic Zirconia. Cubic Zirconia is a cheap, synthetic Diamond substitute that resembles colorless Zircon and has a similar sounding name. While Zircon may also be used as an excellent Diamond substitute, it is valuable in its own right.

The fire in Zircon, called dispersion, is caused by light entering the gemstone and separating into a prism of rainbow colors. Possessing dispersion approaching that of Diamond, the brilliance of Zircon is second to none. The Zircon cut, a variation of the Round Brilliant cut that adds eight extra facets to the pavilion, was designed to take advantage of these properties.

A very unique characteristic of Zircon is birefringence (doubly refractive), meaning that light splits into two rays as it passes through the gem. As a result, the back facets appear as double images, lending optical depth to the gem. Zircon also has an adamantine (Diamond-like) luster, lending further credence to its suitability as a Diamond substitute.

Zircon remains unscathed while other rocks and minerals melt and reform under the tremendous heat and pressure of continental shifts, mountain-building and violent asteroid impacts. Once only considered a Diamond alternative, Zircon is in fact incredibly ancient. A tiny fragment of Zircon discovered in Western Australia is the oldest known object on earth at 4.404 billion years old (the Earth formed less than 150 million years earlier). Diamonds in comparison are quite young, a mere 1 billion to 3.3 billion years old.

Cambodia is arguably the world’s premiere source for gorgeous Blue Zircon. Sixty two miles north of Angkor Wat, close to the Cambodian Thai border, are the mines of Preah Vihear. Remote, pristine and stunningly beautiful, Ratanakiri is another major center for Cambodian Zircon, yielding some of the world’s finest Blue Zircon. Ratanakiri literally means “gemstone mountain.” South of the city, a mining camp has been carved from the forest, where workers toil to extract Ratanakiri Zircon from narrow mine shafts that tap into an alluvial layer about 15 feet below the surface. Matt MacNamara, one of GemsTV’s presenters, visited several Ratanakiri Zircon mines in 2004 and 2007: “I was amazed to see the miners still using traditional mining techniques, which remain effective to this day. It’s easy to forget how much work goes into unearthing these wonderful gems.”

A unification of fire and ice, Ice Zircon™ mixes the pure clear whites of ice with a fiery brilliance and luster reminiscent of Diamonds. Proprietary to GemsTV, our Ice Zircon™ hails from Mahenge, Tanzania in East Africa.

ZIRCON December’s birthstone
Origins Cambodia, Nigeria, Sri Lanka & Tanzania
Colors Found Blue, green, honey, red, white & yellow
Family Zircon
Hardness 6.50 – 7.50
Refractive Index 1.81 – 2.02
Relative Density 3.93 – 4.73
SOurce: GemsTV.com

In fact it came from the Sinai Peninsula or the Alimersai Mountain in Persia (now Iran), which has been mining Turquoise since 5000 BC. In Persian, Turquoise is known as “ferozah,” meaning victorious and it is the national gemstone of Iran to this day.

Legends and lore

Turquoise was one of the first gemstones ever mined, dating back to 6000 BC in Egypt’s Sinai Peninsula.

In ancient times the Egyptians, Persians, Mongols and Tibetans all valued Turquoise highly. The first millennium AD saw a big increase in the popularity of Turquoise with both the Chinese and Native Americans becoming captivated by this blue gem.

Turquoise has been used for thousands of years as jewelry by the ancient Egyptians, who buried fine pieces with mummies. When the tomb of Queen Zer was unearthed in 1900, a Turquoise and Gold bracelet was found on her wrist, making this one of the oldest pieces of jewelry on earth!

The Persians preferred sky blue Turquoise and as a result, the term “Persian Turquoise” is sometimes incorrectly used as a color grade, not as a geographical indicator.

In Mexico, the Aztecs began mining Turquoise between 900-1000 AD, often fashioning it into elaborate masks.

The Anasazi people of America mined Turquoise in what are now Arizona, New Mexico and Colorado. The city of Chaco Canyon became very wealthy based on the Turquoise trade, which was often exchanged for the feathers of tropical birds. Turquoise from this area found its way around the trade routes of the American continent and has been unearthed as far away as the great Mayan city of Chichén Itzá in the Yucatán. By the 16th century, the cultures of the American southwest were using Turquoise as currency.

In North America, the Zuni people of New Mexico have created striking Turquoise jewelry set in silver, once believing these protected them from demons. The Navajo believed that Turquoise had fallen from the sky and thus also protected them from demons, while Apache warriors believed that wearing Turquoise improved their hunting prowess. Apache legend has it that if Turquoise was affixed to a bow, the arrows shot from it would always hit their mark. All these tribes believed that Turquoise brought good fortune and happiness.

European interest in Turquoise can be dated to around 500 BC when the people of Siberia began using the gem, but it did not make an impact on western European fashion until the late middle ages when trading with the Near and Middle East increased.

While the Chinese had some mines in their empire, they imported most of their Turquoise from Persians, Turks, Tibetans and Mongols. In Asia it was considered protection against the evil eye. Tibetans carved Turquoise into ritual objects as well as wearing it in traditional jewelry. Ancient manuscripts from Persia, India, Afghanistan, and Arabia report that the health of a person wearing Turquoise can be assessed by variations in the color of the gem. Turquoise was also thought to promote prosperity.

It is also believed that Turquoise helps one to start new projects and protects the wearer from falling, especially from horses! In Europe even today, Turquoise rings are still given as forget-me-not gifts.

Montezuma’s treasure, now displayed in the British Museum, includes a fantastic carved serpent covered by a mosaic of Turquoise. In ancient Mexico, Turquoise was reserved for the gods; it could not be worn by mere mortals.

Just the facts

Turquoise, a hydrated phosphate of copper and aluminum, is prized as a gemstone whose intense blue color is often mottled with veins of brown limonite or black manganese oxide (commonly known as Spider Web Turquoise). Turquoise is almost always opaque and polished as cabochons but rare, translucent gems also exist.

Turquoise jewelry in the US has long been produced by Native Americans (Zuni and Navajo peoples). Today, Turquoise is prominently associated with Native American culture particularly Zuni bracelets, Navajo concha belts, squash blossom necklaces and thunderbird motifs. Native American jewelry with Turquoise mounted in or with silver is actually relatively new. Some believe this style of jewelry was unknown prior to about 1880, when a white trader persuaded a Navajo craftsman to make Turquoise and silver jewelry using coin silver.

TURQUOISE December’s birthstone
Origins Afghanistan, China, India, Iran & US
Colors Found Bluish green & sky blue
Family Turquoise
Hardness 5.00 – 6.00
Refractive Index 1.61 – 1.65
Relative Density 2.31 – 2.84
Source: GemsTV.com

The name Tourmaline comes from the Sinhalese word “turmali,” meaning mixed, due to a historical tendency for it to be confused and then mixed with other gem varieties.

Legends and lore

Sri Lanka (formerly Ceylon) was also partly responsible for Tourmaline’s reappearance in Europe when Tourmaline gems were sold to Dutch traders who imported them to the west in the 15th century.

The Dutch, aside from admiring Tourmaline for its beauty, first discovered that this gem, like Quartz, possessed a unique property, piezoelectricity. Tourmaline when heated or rubbed creates an electrical charge, becoming a magnet that attracts lightweight materials.

A monarch particularly enchanted by Tourmaline was the Empress Dowager Tz’u Hsi, the last Empress of China. She loved Tourmaline so much, and was so wealthy, that she bought almost a ton of it!

Just the facts

While Tourmalines occur in large crystal sizes, Tourmaline of sufficient beauty to be set into jewelry is not available in great abundance. Because of their size, crystals are sometimes cut into long rectangular shapes following the axis of the crystal.

Tourmaline crystals occur in granitic pegmatite veins occurring in the great gem mining districts of Minas Gerais in Brazil, and the East African countries of Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique, Malawi and Madagascar.

In the summer of 1998 a new Tourmaline deposit was unearthed near the city of Ibadan in Nigeria, West Africa, proving to be one of the most significant Tourmaline discoveries in modern times.

Tourmaline is a group of mineral species. However, it’s the mineral Elbaite (named after the island of Elba near Italy’s west coast where it was discovered) that is responsible for almost all of Tourmaline’s most famous gem varieties. When used, the name “Elbaite” typically references Green Tourmaline, while the other colors of Elbaite have their own specific color-related names.

Tourmaline very occasionally displays the cat’s eye effect. Chatoyancy or the cat’s eye effect is a reflection effect that appears as a single bright band of light across the surface of a gemstone.

All Tourmalines can display pleochroism, meaning that its color changes when viewed at different angles. However, this can vary from specimen to specimen. In some, this effect is hardly noticeable, while in others it is strongly apparent. To bring out the best color, gemstone cutters must take this into account when faceting Tourmaline.

Green Tourmaline

Typically free from inclusions, Green Tourmaline offers gem consumers everything they want in an Emerald, but with more clarity.

Green Tourmaline has become very popular with collectors over recent years as they realize the true potential of this beautiful gem. Chrome Tourmaline is a scarcer variety of Green Tourmaline that bears chromium, the midas element responsible for producing particularly striking colors in a variety of gemstones.

Indicolite Tourmaline

Ranging in color from bright to deep blue, Indicolite Tourmaline is very rare and high quality specimens are highly collectible. Indicolite is strongly pleochroic (showing different hues when viewed from different directions). As Indicolite appears darker when viewed down the crystal, this must be taken into consideration when cutting, as a loss of transparency and brilliance can occur in darker specimens. The Romans reportedly used Indicolite, particularly in carved brooches that often bore the images of animals, as they believed it possessed strange occult powers. It was rediscovered in Europe in 1703 when the Dutch imported Indicolite they had obtained in Sri Lanka. Generally, only Indicolite less than 1 carat is available and as a result, bigger sizes are very rare and prized as special members of the Tourmaline family.

Multi Color Tourmaline

Mentioned in early 20th century gemological texts, it was not until the 1970’s that Multi Color Tourmaline lent its charm to jewelry. Treasured for the magnificent harmony of its two colors, Multi Color Tourmaline possesses a distinctive beauty created by chance.

Due to its complex chemical composition, Tourmaline comes in many colors. Multi Colored Tourmaline occurs because of differences caused by environmental changes. At different times, various color-causing elements (iron, manganese, titanium, chromium and vanadium) were incorporated into the crystal, causing different color layers. Purposefully cut to showcase this feature, Multi Colored Tourmaline displays a gorgeous contrast between its colors, typically pink and green, in one gem.

Given the environmental changes endured by Multi Color Tourmaline, like many Tourmalines (Paraiba or Rubellite), inclusions are common. Far from being flaws, inclusions are a hallmark of authenticity that record a gem’s natural relationship with the earth.

Multi Color Tourmaline should not be confused with Watermelon Tourmaline. Watermelon Tourmaline is a crystal with the inner part showing pink surrounded by green. They are typically thinly sliced in sections, like a loaf of bread and polished to show the “watermelon” effect.

Paraiba Tourmaline

Paraiba Tourmaline is typically a small gem that displays electric swimming pool blues, neon peacocks and sizzling turquoises. Initially discovered at Mina da Bathalha, Paraiba, Brazil, it possesses a unique brilliance that allows the gem to glow and shine even when there is little light.

Named after the location of its first discovery, Paraiba, Brazil, the most interesting thing about this gem is that its name is more than just a location. Most Tourmalines get their gorgeous colors from traces of iron, manganese, chromium and vanadium, but Paraiba Tourmaline owes its spectacular colors to small amounts of copper, an element not typically found in Tourmaline. Paraiba Tourmaline also often contains manganese. When combined, the interaction between copper and manganese adds to the beautiful and fascinating colors displayed.

Prior to 1989, Mina da Batalha produced Tourmaline for almost 10 years but the crystals were too fractured or broken to be faceted. Heitor Dimas Barbos, the father of Paraiba Tourmaline, was convinced that better quality Tourmaline could be found. He started digging in abandoned mines near the village of Sao Jose da Batalha in early 1981. In autumn 1989 his persistence finally paid off when he discovered a tiny new vein of gem-quality crystals. By 1994 the relatively small mountain range had almost been leveled and exhausted in the hunt for Paraiba Tourmaline. Mining Brazilian Paraiba Tourmaline is laborious, unpredictable and erratic. Chipped by hand directly from host metamorphic rock (granitic pegmatite), the elusive narrow veins appear and disappear haphazardly, resulting in mines that resemble Swiss cheese, with a multitude of narrow shafts and interconnected tunnels up to 197 feet deep.

While other Brazilian deposits have since been discovered, the race has been on to find these geological rarities elsewhere. Thankfully, Africa came to the rescue. The first new find was discovered in 2001 at the Edoukou Mine in Oyo, Nigeria, close to the border of Benin and in 2003 in Mozambique’s Nampula (Mafucu Mine or Shalawa Mine) and Zambezia provinces. African Paraiba is believed to exist due to the theory of continental drift. Roughly 200 million years ago the earth’s continents were joined together to form one gigantic super-continent called Pangaea. Comparing the silhouettes of Africa and South America, both fit like pieces in a jigsaw puzzle. This suggests they once belonged to a single landmass where similar geological conditions resulted in their formation. In contrast to the Brazilian deposit, African Paraiba Tourmaline is mined from alluvial deposits. Interestingly, the LMHC (Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee) recently determined that as African Paraiba cannot be distinguished from their Brazilian counterpart by standard gemological tests, the “Paraiba” name is no longer origin specific, it is now only dependent on color, copper and manganese.

While mostly small sizes are extracted (less than 10 points) Paraiba Tourmaline from Mozambique has an average size of 2 carats, which is absolutely amazing considering the norm. Like Emeralds, inclusions are common in Paraiba Tourmaline, making its color the main beauty determinant. However, when Paraiba Tourmaline displays clean clarities, its rarity and value increase exceptionally. Its beautiful vivid colors have made Paraiba Tourmaline hugely popular within a short time. An uncommon color for the gem kingdom, Paraiba Tourmaline even enchants those accustomed to seeing a wide variety of gems. One of the world’s most desired gemstones, gem collectors the world over compete for new Paraiba Tourmaline. Paraiba Tourmaline is a gem whose impossible rarity is only surpassed by its unrivaled beauty.

Rubellite Tourmaline

Rubellite’s sensuous mélange is the personification of seduction; no other colors display its comparable flair. Whispering in passionate pinks and suggestive purples, Rubellite affords the perfect romance in an opulence of red. Rubellite, deriving its name from the Latin word “rubellus,” meaning “coming from red” is a lustrous, reddish pink and purple-toned variety of Tourmaline. In the 17th century, the Tsar of Russia commissioned many items of gemstone jewelry to be made for the Imperial Crown Court. However, gems that were originally thought to be Rubies, have later been discovered to be Rubellite.

Extremely rare, Rubellite has taken the jewelry world by storm in recent years following the discovery of deposits in Madagascar and Nigeria. Madagascan Rubellite heralds from mines located 26 miles from the town of Betafo, in the Antananarivo province in Madagascar’s central highlands. Interestingly, this deposit produces some truly unique Rubellites whose color is close to that of famous Rubies.

With the exception of Ruby and Noble Red Spinel, Rubellite is the only other gemstone that occurs in such a rich, dark red color. Similar to Emeralds, inclusions in Rubellite are common. The chemical element that colors Rubellite (manganese) actually cause a growing crystal to become internally flawed (i.e., the more manganese present, the darker the red color, and the more imperfect the final crystal). It is therefore extremely rare to find a richly colored Rubellite that is internally clean. Rubellites also tend to have more natural inclusions because they are formed near the center of the crystal pocket, and thus receive more stress and pressure during their formation. Regardless, Rubellite is a durable gemstone, well-suited to everyday jewelry.

Source: GemsTV.com

While some sources think this was due to ancient confusion between Topaz and Peridot, it now appears more likely that this name might have come from confusion with the Greek word “topasin,” which means to guess or conjecture, possibly in reference to the way fisherman sometimes lost the island in fog. Regardless, in history the name was not consistently or specifically applied (it was once used to describe most yellow gems) and sometimes Topaz and Peridot are mentioned as being the same and sometimes different. Interestingly, in the famous book “The Curious Lore of Precious Stones,” the esteemed gemologist George Frederick Kunz (1856-1932) states that these two gems are the same species.

Topaz is an inherently romantic gem and features regularly in the titles of romance novels and honeymoon destinations. Its name indicates beauty, rarity and wealth, and imparts a sense of timelessness.

While the golden yellow and blues of Topaz are the most widely known, Topaz actually comes in a diverse array of striking colors. This combined with its beauty and durability, makes Topaz jewelry ideal for all occasions.

Legends and lore

Many ancient traditions and beliefs have created a brilliant history for Topaz. Like Peridot, the Egyptians called Topaz the “gem of the sun,” believing it was colored by the golden glow of their sun god Ra and thus a powerful protector from harm.

Greeks and Romans also associated the golden crystals with their sun god, Jupiter. They believed the gem increased their strength and could neutralize enchantments.

Topaz is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Topaz is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle Matthew.

Bushmen in Africa used Topaz in healing ceremonies and rituals to connect with ancestral spirits.

In medieval courts, kings, judges and other noble persons were often presented with an engraved Topaz to win favor and cultivate positive relationships.

If you are on a journey of spiritual change, Topaz is believed by crystal healers to make an excellent companion. It apparently teaches you to trust in the universe, aiding you to fully recognize the magical laws of attraction, increasing your ability to manipulate them.

Once believed to make you invincible during danger, Topaz is also believed by some crystal healers to strengthen confidence and to help you make correct decisions by giving you the courage to follow through on choices, thereby changing dreams into reality.

Meditations with Topaz are believed by some to help awaken sleeping talents and illuminate co-creative energies.

Just the facts

Mined from both host rock and alluvial deposits, its unique crystal structure makes Topaz a hard and dense gemstone. Because of this, pure colorless Topaz has often been mistaken for Diamond. Weighing 1,680 carats, the huge Braganza gemstone mounted into the Portuguese crown jewels was originally thought to be a Diamond – in fact it is a beautiful clear Topaz.

A hydrous aluminum fluorosilicate, Topaz is usually formed in granitic pegmatites and in Quartz veins.

Blue Topaz

As well as the renowned Sky Blue Topaz, the more intense coloring of Swiss Blue and London Blue Topaz are also becoming increasingly popular.

Glacier Topaz™

A unification of fire and ice, Glacier Topaz™ mixes the pure clear whites of glacier ice with a fiery brilliance and luster reminiscent of Diamonds. Sourced from Russia’s frozen wildness, Glacier Topaz™ is a stunning new gemstone exclusive to GemsTV.

Mined from the same region as Russian Alexandrite and Siberian Emerald, Glacier Topaz™ is yet another testament to the quality of Russian gemstones. Glacier Topaz™, arguably Topaz at its most pure, requires only cutting and faceting to reveal its hidden beauty.

Glacier Topaz™ is mined at one location on the planet, the famous Murzinka mines (named after the Ostyak’s Prince Murzin) in the Ural Mountains, Russia. Active for well over a century, the Murzinka mines produce some of the world’s finest Topaz, a gemstone for which Russia was once famous.

While Brazil is today the recognized powerhouse for Topaz, Russian Topaz is relatively difficult to source, particularly with respect to the pure natural perfection embodied by Glacier Topaz™.

The miners work the deposits of the Murzinka granite pegmatite fields by tunneling up to 98 feet below the earth’s surface in an effort to carefully extract Topaz crystals directly from the host rocks of the lucrative Mokrusha vein. Painstaking work, only a very small percentage of all the Murzinka Topaz mined has the necessary purity to warrant the distinction of being called Glacier Topaz™.

Imperial Topaz

At the height of Imperial Russia’s power, orange pink Topaz was brought from Brazil to decorate the jewelry of the Tzarina. Since then, these colors have been known as Imperial Topaz and remain one of the most coveted varieties. Interestingly, some sources dispute this legend and state that Imperial Topaz was named in honor of Emperor Don Pedro of Brazil.

Mystic Topaz

Displaying a flaming kaleidoscope of colors, Mystic Topaz (also known as Mystic Fire Topaz, Rainbow Topaz, Titanium Topaz, Alaskan Topaz and Caribbean Topaz) is one of the 20th century’s most beautiful new gemstones. First appearing in September 1998 at the Hong Kong Jewelry Fair, the popularity of Mystic Topaz increased dramatically when it was exhibited at the Tucson Gem Show in 2003.

Mystic Topaz is produced using the physical vapor deposition (PVD) coating process. Applied to top quality natural White Topaz, the treatment is permanent with normal wear (please click here for more information on the PVD process). This process can induce an iridescent appearance, whose colors range depending on the light source and the viewing angle relative to both the gem’s surfaces and the light source.

While Mystic Topaz displays a wide variety of scintillating celestial, earthly and oceanic hues all in one gemstone, the PVD process also produces a range of popular new Topaz colors including Flamingo Topaz, Twilight Topaz, Moonlight Topaz, Canary Topaz, Kiwi Topaz and Neptune Topaz.

TOPAZ November’s birthstone
Origins Brazil, Mozambique, Nigeria & Russia
Colors Found Various
Family Topaz
Hardness 8.00
Refractive Index 1.60 – 1.64
Relative Density 3.49 – 3.57

Legends and lore

Coveted since antiquity, Roman soldiers wore Tiger’s Eye for protection in battle. Due to its appearance, in the ancient world Tiger’s Eye was thought to be all seeing, offering protection during travel, and strengthening of convictions and confidence.

Many legends say that wearing Tiger’s Eye is beneficial for health and spiritual well-being. Legend also says it is a psychic protector, great for business and aids in achieving clarity of mind.

Today, crystal healers use Tiger’s Eye for focusing the mind.

Just the facts

Quartz gemstones are commonly separated into two groups based on the size of their individual crystals. The macrocrystalline Quartz (large crystal) group includes many popular gemstones such as Tiger’s Eye, Amethyst, Ametrine and Citrine. Cryptocrystalline Quartz includes species whose individual crystals are too small to be easily distinguished. Apart from being a variety within the group, Chalcedony is also a catchall term to describe cryptocrystalline Quartz and includes many gems that have been coveted since antiquity.

Tiger’s Eye is a pseudomorph (the result of one mineral replacing another) that contains oriented fibers of crocidolite that have been replaced by silica.

Tiger’s Eye displays chatoyancy (a vertical luminescent band like that of a cat’s eye). While Tiger’s Eye typically has lustrous alternating yellow or brown bands, varieties of chatoyant Quartz include a blue-green variety called Hawk’s Eye Quartz, a greenish-gray variety called Cat’s Eye Quartz and a reddish brown variety called Bull’s Eye Quartz or Ox Eye Quartz. Cutting is crucial with Tiger’s Eye because the rough crystals reveal little or nothing of the chatoyancy of the finished gem.

TIGER’S EYE Chatoyancy
Origins Australia, Brazil, India, Namibia & South Africa
Colors Found Blue-green, golden brown, green-gray & reddish brown
Family Quartz
Hardness 6.50 – 7.00
Refractive Index 1.53 – 1.54
Relative Density 2.58 – 2.64
Source: GemsTV.com

Tektite comes from the Greek word “tektos,” meaning molten and was the name given by Edward Suess, a highly regarded professor at the University of Vienna.

A meteor is a small particle from space that appears as a bright light that completely burns up before it hits the ground. However, a meteorite is a meteor that is large enough to reach the ground without burning up completely. Frequently exploding on impact, throwing pieces of rare and highly sought after meteorite debris over a large area, these incredibly scarce and collectible gems are perfect for anyone fascinated by outer space.

Just the facts

Collectively known as Tektites, they are assigned specific names based on their location. For example, Moldavites, named after the river Moldu in the Czech Republic are found in this country as well as Austria and Germany, Australites are from Australia, Philippinites are from the Philippines and southern China, Malaysianites are from Malaysia, and Indochinites are from Thailand, Burma, China, Laos and Vietnam.

Considered to be gemstones from space, Tektites are fragments of natural glass that are formed from meteorite impacts with our planet. Tektites come in two forms. The more typical “splash form” Tektites have rounded aerodynamic shapes such as spheres, teardrops, dumbbells and disks, while “layered” Tektites are usually only found in southeast Asia and have blocky, fragmental shapes and often display compositional layering.

Some Tektites are smooth, but others have rough, strongly eroded surfaces. Most Tektites are jet black, but Moldavites are dark to bottle green and are usually the most suitable for faceting. Tektites look similar to Obsidian, which is a result of volcanic lava coming into contact with water, but they are differentiated by their color and chemical composition.

Tektites are only found in a few regions on earth (called Tektite strewn fields) and are, in most cases, associated with young impact craters on or near land.

TEKTITE Extraterrestrial gem
Origins Australia, Austria, China, Czech Republic, Germany, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand & Vietnam
Colors Found Black & green
Family Tektite
Hardness 5.50
Refractive Index 1.48 – 1.54
Relative Density 2.32 – 2.38
Source: GemsTV.com

Legends and lore

While Tanzanite might not yet be the stuff of legends, being discovered a mere 40 years ago, this gorgeous gem has already attracted more attention and gossip than any modern-day celebrity.

Named for Czechoslovakian Baron Zois von Edelstein, before Tanzanite, Zoisite (Tanzanite’s gemological name) never really amounted to much. Sure, opaque pink and apple-green varieties were used in jewelry, but these were never going to make Zoisite hugely popular. All this changed in 1967 at the arid foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro in Merelani, Tanzania. Legend has it that a short lived grass fire caused by a lightening strike was the catalyst that turned burgundy violet surface pebbles of Zoisite into the vibrant blues spotted by Tanzania’s nomadic Masai herdsmen. While wonderfully romantic, it is unlikely a grass fire could affect such a dramatic transformation.

In reality, the story of Tanzanite’s discovery is as fascinating as the gem. While it is not known exactly who first found Tanzanite, the most popular story is that a local tribesman, Ali Juuyawatu discovered a translucent Tanzanite crystal at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro, sharing his find with a local prospector named Manuel D’Souza. D’Souza was actually searching for Rubies in the region and initially thought he’d discovered a new source of Sapphires. However, their multitude of blues and complex composition soon revealed Tanzanite’s true identity to gemologists. Interestingly, the legendary Scottish geologist, Campbell R. Bridges, first discovered Tsavorite in Tanzania in 1967 during some Tanzanite consulting work for Tiffany & Co. and was the first person to bring Tanzanite to the US for identification by the GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Gem Trade Laboratory. Tanzanite quickly found its way to American jewelers, arriving at the New York-based jewelers Tiffany & Co.

Henry B. Platt, great grandson of Louis Comfort Tiffany and later President and Chairman of Tiffany & Co., was immediately enraptured by its beauty, but disturbed by its gemological name “Blue Zoisite.” To him the name echoed “blue suicide.” As with everything, it’s all in the name, so this rare and exotic African gemstone was christened Tanzanite. At Tanzanite’s official launch in October 1968, Platt remarked that it “was the most beautiful blue gemstone discovered in over 2,000 years.” Heralded as “the gemstone of the 20th century,” Tanzanite’s blue-purple fire soon took the world by storm and demand for Tanzanite jewelry grew dramatically, until in 1998 and 1999 Tanzanite was proclaimed the world’s best selling colored gemstone. Today, the demand for Tanzanite continues, outstripping sales of all other colored gemstones, with the exception of Sapphire.

In recognition of its popularity, in 2002 Tanzanite was added to the jewelry industry’s official birthstone list. This saw Tanzanite join Turquoise and Zircon as accepted birthstones for December. Not a small thing, especially when you consider this was the first time the list had been changed since 1912! Now an official birthstone, Tanzanite is increasingly regarded as the ideal gem to celebrate new life and new beginnings. This belief has its roots in Masai tradition, where blue is believed to be a sacred spiritual color and bestowed in the form of blue beads and robes to women who have borne children. Today, this tradition has evolved, with Masai chiefs giving Tanzanite to wives on the birth of a baby. This gift is believed to bless their child with a healthy, positive and successful life.

Tanzanite continues to be all the rage in contemporary jewelry. Tom Ford, formerly “enfant terrible” of the Paris and Milan fashion house Gucci, once dominated the catwalks with a collection modeling exotic blue gems, including Tanzanite.

At the 2004 Oscars, Eileen Penn, mother of OSCAR® winner Sean Penn, stole the limelight from her son with a stunning Tanzanite and Diamond cross pendant.

Just the facts

A key ingredient in Tanzanite’s success is that it exhibits more shades of blue than a clear midnight sky due to a phenomenon called pleochroism, whereby different colors are seen in different directions of the gemstone. Tanzanite is extremely light sensitive, frequently exhibiting a color shift from more bluish hues under daylight, to pinkish violets under incandescent lighting (candlelight). While the best examples show an intense blue under any light, most of the time, you can actually see both colors simultaneously. As an allochromatic (other colored) gemstone, color saturation in Tanzanite is determined by the amount and ratio of chromium and vanadium trace elements. Whether you choose a pastel or richer colored Tanzanite is down to your preference and budget, but please be aware that Tanzanite’s colorful brilliance intensifies in larger sizes – you’re generally not going to find deeper colors in smaller sizes.

As Tanzanite crystals occur with reasonably few inclusions, the standard is eye-clean (no visible inclusions when the gem is examined approximately 6 inches from the naked eye).

Tanzanite is found in a variety of shapes and cuts. Ovals and Cushions are the most common, but Rounds and other shapes are also seen. Regardless of the cut, look for good brilliance. While intense blues are favored, overly large or poorly cut examples can loose brilliance, making them appear too dark. Tanzanite can sometimes occur in extremely large sizes, but the most popular sizes for jewelry are below 20 carats. Tanzanite’s wonderful colors, clarity and range of imaginative cuts lend itself to prominent display. While fashionable drop-earrings and pendants accentuate Tanzanite’s inherent characteristics, it’s also popularly featured as large carat-sized solitaires mounted into prominent ring settings that show off its scintillating colors to full effect.

Exclusively mined in one deposit in East Africa in an area of Tanzania known as Merelani, Tanzanite is also coveted because of its rarity. The conditions involved in Tanzanite’s formation 585 million years ago saw the random incorporation of vanadium during an event so unique that experts believe the chance of Tanzanite occurring elsewhere is one in a million. The Tanzanite deposits are hosted in metamorphic rocks, marbles and schists that belong to the Mozambique Belt (Rift Valley). The deposits run through the low hills of Merelani that rise from the hot Sanya plains, close to Mount Kilimanjaro. Running at an angle of 41 degrees to the surface, the deposit line or horizon periodically folds over itself, creating pockets of Tanzanite. Barely covering 8 square miles, the Tanzanite mining area has been divided into four different sections known as “blocks” (lettered A, B, C and D) that have been allotted to different mining groups. Even at the largest and most sophisticated mine in operation in C block, the yield for raw Tanzanite crystals average only 22 carats (4.4 grams) per processed ton! Tanzanite production is slowly, but surely decreasing and many experts believe Tanzanite will disappear in years to come. Understandably, this has led to Tanzanite gaining considerable notoriety. After all, the desire to own something beautiful and rare is irresistible.

Although there are several Tanzanite grading systems available, they are all primarily concerned with judging color quality. This is because compared to Ruby, Sapphire and Emerald, Tanzanite is typically free from inclusions, making color the single most important factor when evaluating Tanzanite. Representing less than 1% of all Tanzanite mined, AAA Tanzanite is characterized by intensely deep purple blues and can be likened to an old French wine of an impossibly hard to obtain vintage. Interestingly, the D block section has earned the reputation for supplying the majority of AAA Tanzanite. AAA Tanzanite is the very best quality Tanzanite sold at GemsTV.

As Tanzanite typically starts its life as bluish burgundy crystals, virtually all Tanzanite has been heated to enhance their color. This is an accepted and permanent treatment that actually makes Tanzanite’s color-causing element, vanadium, more stable. Occasionally, this process produces highly coveted and extremely rare fancy colors (Pink Tanzanite, Green Tanzanite, Multi Color Tanzanite etc.). Possessing all the qualities of regular Tanzanite, these colored varieties are far less common and are highly coveted by collectors. In gemology, the technically correct name for these gems is “(Color Prefix) Zoisite.” However, “(Color Prefix) Tanzanite” is generally accepted in the marketplace due to the gem’s popularity and because this name specifies an origin.

Tanzanite exudes sophistication, individuality and self confidence. Tanzanite jewelry is suited to all ages, emphasizing the nonconformity of the young and the sophistication of the mature. However, Tanzanite is rare and growing rarer by the moment. Apart from the sheer pleasure of owning one of the 20th century’s most spectacular gemstones, those fortunate to already own a Tanzanite, or to purchase one before the only known deposit is depleted, truly are custodians of a gem whose legacy will be to pass it on as an heirloom to future generations.

TANZANITE December’s birthstone
Origins Tanzania
Colors Found Shades of lilac, blue & purple as well as fancy colors
Family Zoisite
Hardness 6.50 – 7.00
Refractive Index 1.69 – 1.70
Relative Density 3.35
Source: GemsTV.com

Legends and lore

An ancient gem, sunstone has allegedly been discovered in Viking burial mounds. It is thought that the Vikings actually used the light-polarizing properties of a stone to tell the direction of the sun on cloudy days. While this “sun stone” is thought to have actually been Iceland spar (calcite) or iolite, the name today is applied to a brilliant variety of feldspar.

Not only did the Vikings believe sunstone could aid navigation across the seas, but it was also considered a path-finding tool to Valhalla and the afterlife. Pope Clement VII (1478–1534) was reputed to have in his possession a sunstone with a golden spot that moved across the surface in accordance with the apparent motion of the sun from sunrise to sunset.

Native Americans in Oregon used sunstone for trade and barter. Oregon sunstone was declared the official gemstone of the State of Oregon in 1987. Sunstone is claimed by some sources to have been used by Tibetans in medicine rituals to help spirit guides access the healing power of the sun. When contact with the spirit guides was successful, the gem was said to glow a bright gold.

Crystal healers believe sunstone to be useful for adding personal insight and alleviating depression. Historically, sunstone has been linked with benevolent gods, luck and good fortune.

Just the facts

Sunstone is a member of the plagioclase feldspar group of minerals and occurs in the compositional range of oligoclase, labradorite and andesine. Orthoclase sunstones are also known.

The name feldspar comes from the German feldt spat, meaning field stone. So named, this is because when feldspar weathers, it releases large amounts of plant nutrients, such as potassium, which enrich soil.

Sunstone has a beautiful glittering sunlight effect as a result of its tiny metallic inclusions. The copper or hematite inclusions cause sparkling flashes of light as thousands of particles playfully interact with light, an effect known to gemologists as aventurescence. Many sunstones are cut as cabochons to display this phenomenon, but some may also be faceted to exhibit their superior luster.

Sunstone is formed and crystallized in lava flows, mica schists and pegmatites. The gem is typically mined with pick and shovel from the surface of partially decomposed rock or from shallow pits and shafts dug to retrieve the rough.

Sunstones range in color from water clear through pale yellow, soft pink and red to deep teal green. Some of the deeper colored gems have bands of varying color while others exhibit pleochroism, showing different colors when viewed in different directions.

The world’s most famous sunstone mines are in Oregon’s Harney and Lake counties, where a high copper content gives them their unique bright orange to red colors. Sunstone is also found in India, Canada, Tanzania, Tibet, Madagascar, Norway and Russia.

In 2002, a new supply of sunstone entered the market from an origin that is still subject to debate. Described variously as originating from the Congo and later from Tibet, testing proved the gems to be plagioclase feldspars in the labradorite/andesine compositional range. A swirling mix of coppery oranges, honeys, ambers, lemons and limes characterizes these sunstones, with a beautiful glittering sunlight effect caused by tiny copper inclusions.

While the copper and hematite inclusions in sunstone are predominantly orange or red, they sometimes disperse a fiery iridescence. This attractive blend of shimmering colors gives sunstone an appearance unlike any other gemstone. Fine sunstones are extremely rare and put this variety of feldspar in the same class as the best the gem kingdom has to offer.

Similar to alexandrite, the color change variety of chrysoberyl, in extremely rare specimens sunstone can also display the color change effect. In daylight it is green while in incandescent light it is a coppery red. Green and imperial (orange pink) sunstones are also available.

Tanzanian sunstone was first found by a young Masai man on tribal grazing lands near Arusha in 2000. This sunstone’s basic red-orange color mimics the bright hues of the Masai people’s dress. These gems have been marketed under various trade names, including illusion sunstone, tanzasun and Masai sunstone.

The Tanzanian sunstone features large flakes of vivid red and orange hematite, floating within a pale green to colorless feldspar matrix, with plates aligned parallel to cleavage planes. Local African miners call these large flakes flowers. In many cases, the hematite plates reflect a multitude of electric neon colors as the stones are rotated, creating a lovely kaleidoscope of color.

Cabochons with lots of hematite frequently display one or more cat’s-eye bands and weak stars are also found on occasion in some sunstones from Madagascar and Tanzania. This further accentuates sunstone’s natural sparkle.

SUNSTONE Aventurescence
Origins India, Madagascar, Norway, Russia, Tanzania, Tibet & USA
Colors Found Green, color change, orange, red & yellow
Family Feldspar
Hardness 6 to 6.5
Refractive Index 1.52-1.57
Specific Gravity 2.55-2.72
Source: GemsTV.com

Spinel’s name is derived either from the Latin word for thorn “spina,” as a result of its characteristic octahedral crystals having pointed ends, or from the Greek word for spark “spintharis,” in reference to the gem’s bright red hues.

Legends and lore

Due to its mistaken identity, Spinel has few historical references. However, Spinels have a bizarre association with sorcerers and alchemists. Spinels were used by practitioners of the “dark arts” to summon demons and also used as amulets to protect them from fire. One tale describes how Spinels could be used to work against their masters. Those thought to possess supernatural powers were found guilty if they began to shake when approached with a Spinel wrapped in paper!

Spinels occupy a unique place in gemstone history. Despite being recognized as a separate gem species in 1587, up until the 19th century the intense coloration displayed by Noble Red Spinel led some to mistakenly identify this gem as Ruby. The source of confusion stemmed not only from color similarities but also the close proximity of their deposits. It was not until 1783 that Rome de Lisle became the first scientist to clearly distinguish differences between Ruby and Noble Red Spinel.

Noble Red Spinel’s near identical resemblance to Ruby results in it being a prodigious, albeit accidental feature in many of the world’s most famous gem collections, including the Vatican’s and the Crown Jewels of Russia, Iran and England. Interestingly, both the legendary 352 carat “Timur Ruby” and the 170 carat “Black Prince’s Ruby,” which feature in the British Imperial State Crown proved to be Noble Red Spinel!

In 1415 at the Battle of Agincourt the English King, Henry V wore a helmet garnished with jewels including the “Black Prince’s Ruby.” During the battle, the French commander, the Duke of Alencon, struck Henry’s head a mighty blow with his battle-axe, nearly killing the King. Surprisingly, the force of the blow glanced off the Spinel saving his life and allowed Henry to lead his troops to what many thought would be an impossible victory.

Just the facts

The reality behind Noble Red Spinel’s Ruby-like appearance is its proximity to Corundum deposits, the base mineral of Rubies and Sapphires, and chromium, the midas element responsible for giving both Noble Red Spinels and Rubies their deep red color.

Today, Spinels can be easily identified by their refractivity. Since Noble Red Spinels are singly refractive and Rubies doubly refractive, the primary color in Noble Red Spinels appears purer and more intense than the reds seen in many Rubies.

Spinel occurs in many colors including red, blue, pink, orange and a plethora of other fancy colors. Apart from color prefixes, some of Spinel’s variety names include:

Almandine Spinel The violet variety of Spinel.
Balas Ruby This is an historical name for Spinel, which referred to the country of origin; either Badakshan in Tajikistan or the Balaksh region of Sri Lanka.
Cobalt Blue Spinel Resembling fine Sapphires, these exceptional Blue Spinels from Sri Lanka and Tanzania are colored by Cobalt. Regular Blue Spinel also hails from Tanzania and displays similar visual similarities to Sapphire, particularly those from Montana, US.
Flame Spinel The orange-red variety of Spinel.
Gahnite or Gahnospinel Named after Swedish chemist L. G. Gahn, it is the rare greenish or bluish, zinc-rich variety of Spinel.
Noble Red Spinel The Ruby red variety of Spinel that was historically mistaken for Ruby.
Rubicelle The yellow to orange variety of Spinel.

Spinels are mined from alluvial deposits or directly from large granular granite or other igneous host rocks. Spinels come from a handful of sources including Madagascar, Tunduru in Tanzania’s remote southeast and central Vietnam’s Luc Yen region. While most gemstone aficionados know Burma to be the classic and most familiar source for fine Noble Red Spinel, new discoveries in Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro region are shifting paradigms. Tanzanian Noble Red Spinel is increasingly acclaimed for its bright red hues and a brilliance and luster that defy verbal description.

Perfect octahedral crystals are sometimes set into jewelry in their original uncut octahedral shapes. The Burmese refer to these gems as “nat thwe,” meaning spirit polished. Sometimes “nat thwe” Spinels will receive a very light polishing.

Pure Spinel is white, but impurities give it a wide range of colors. Almost all colors are used in jewelry, but the most valuable and popular color is Noble Red Spinel. Occasionally, color change varieties are found, turning color from a light gray blue in daylight to a light purple under candlelight.

Even though they are more affordable, did you know that Spinels are rarer than Rubies? In the gem kingdom, “rare” can be both a blessing and a curse, as this affects market prices and availability. This is unfortunate for the Spinel miner, but great news for everyone else as they are one of nature’s most beautiful treasures.

Spinels are intensely colored durable gemstones perfect for all jewelry. Spinel’s high refractive index makes cutting very important, as the quality of the cut will affect its brilliance. Naturally, all Spinels sold at GemsTV are faceted by experienced cutters who always take each gemstone’s physical properties and individual attributes into consideration.

SPINEL Once confused with Ruby and Sapphire
Origins Madagascar, Tanzania & Vietnam
Colors Found Various
Family Spinel
Hardness 8.00
Refractive Index 1.71 – 1.76
Relative Density 3.54 – 3.63
Source: GemsTV.com

One of the world’s newest and rarest gems, Sphene possesses the rather unusual ability to take a beam of light and break it into all of the spectral colors, a feature gemologically referred to as fire or dispersion. In this regard Sphene is superior to Diamond. This combined with its strong pleochroism (different colors are displayed when the gemstone is viewed from different angles) has the effect of making the gem appear to change color. Occasionally pink, black or chocolate, most Sphene is predominantly green or yellowish-green, with just about every other color of the rainbow displayed by its intense fiery brilliance.

Just the facts

Sphene makes gorgeously brilliant, fiery gems that have a higher dispersion (fire) than Diamonds.

Sphene’s magnificent fire, unique color shades, strong pleochroism, adamantine (Diamond-like) luster and double refraction (birefringence) make it ideal for earrings and pendants that catch the light, displaying its sparkling qualities to full effect. A unique characteristic of Sphene is birefringence (doubly refractive), meaning that light splits into two rays as it passes through the gem. As a result, the back facets appear as double images giving it a beautiful soft hazy appearance similar to the doubling seen in Zircon. If well polished the luster can approach or equal that of Diamond, but Sphene is notoriously difficult to polish well. A well polished Sphene is testament to an experienced jeweler. We always take great care to ensure that our Sphene is finished in a manner that maximizes its intense natural beauty. Sphene larger than a few carats without inclusions is extremely scarce.

SPHENE Fire greater than Diamond
Origins Brazil, Madagascar, Pakistan & Sri Lanka
Colors Found Yellowish-green
Family Sphene
Hardness 5.00 – 5.50
Refractive Index 1.84 – 2.11
Relative Density 3.52 – 3.54
Source: GemsTV.com

Just the facts

Sillimanite is formed from aluminum silicate and is usually found as silky, fibrous crystals suitable for cabochons. Transparent crystals suitable for faceting display a glassy luster and are exceedingly scarce. Sillimanite is colorless, white, brown, yellow, blue and green in color.

Sillimanite is typically found scattered within layers of metamorphic rocks that have been put under great pressure and high temperature. This is why Sillimanite is commonly found in volcanic or hot spring areas. Because of the way it is scattered within the host rocks, miners often have difficulty in detecting Sillimanite.

Sillimanite is a polymorph with two other minerals, Kyanite and Andalusite. A polymorph is a mineral that shares the same chemistry but a different crystal structure with another, or other, minerals. This is unusual, and due to its brittleness, Sillimanite is very difficult to facet. Some 50% of gem quality crystals can be damaged during the faceting and fashioning process alone!

Some Sillimanite crystals demonstrate chatoyancy (also known as the “cat’s eye effect,” caused by minerals reflecting a single band of light back to the eye) and asterism (also known as the “star effect,” this is caused by minerals reflecting a star of light back to the eye). These optical effects are highly coveted and well-suited to cabochon rings and earrings.

SILLIMANITE Polymorph
Origins Brazil, India & Sri Lanka
Colors Found Blue, brown, colorless, green, white & yellow
Family Sillimanite
Hardness 6.00 – 7.00
Refractive Index 1.65 – 1.68
Relative Density 3.24
Source: GemsTV.com

Fancy Sapphires get their unique colors from the iron, chromium, titanium and other trace metals present within the Corundum.

Chanthaburi Sapphire

Black Star Sapphires have only ever been found at one place on Earth – Ban Kha Ja, Chanthaburi (located approximately 152 miles east of Bangkok, close to the border of Cambodia). From these mines, no more than 4 miles from the GemsTV workshops, stunning blue, green and yellow Sapphires are also unearthed. Displaying gorgeous golden tangerine hues, a stunning Sapphire variety we aptly called “Chanthaburi Sapphire” from a new alluvial pocket at Ban Kha Ja proved hugely popular in 2005.

Black Star Sapphires differ from other Corundum in that their color is not due to trace elements or color centers. Instead, it is caused by the color of exsolved hematite-ilmenite silk inclusions. This silk imparts a deep brown black color to an otherwise blue, green or yellow Sapphire. This is called “mechanical coloration” or “color by inclusions.” Not only are they responsible for color, but they also produce a six-rayed star effect. When it occurs in an otherwise blue or green Sapphire, the rays of the star appear white. Sometimes the hematite unmixes in a yellow Sapphire, giving the star a golden yellow color.

Today, mining in Chanthaburi is very limited making top quality Sapphires from this town exceedingly rare. In fact, we think what is being traded in the local market is predominately older stock, with very few new gems being unearthed.

Color Change Sapphire

While Color Change Sapphires come from a variety of locations, the gem gravels of Tanzania are the main source. Color Change Sapphires present gem lovers with an opportunity to own the rare and stunning color change effect in a gem other than Alexandrite or Garnet. While the colors tend to vary depending on locale, in general they change from khaki green to reddish purple. The picture of a notable exception from Sri Lanka, changing from purple to red, is included below.

Green Sapphire

Green Sapphires display a range of green hues, from tropical limes to wine bottle greens.

Padparadscha & Padparadscha Color Sapphire

While Sapphires have mesmerized jewelry connoisseurs since the dawn of time, there is one Sapphire variety that mesmerizes above all others, the mysterious and coveted Padparadscha Sapphire.

Padparadscha Sapphire derives its name from its resemblance to the beautiful and famed pinkish orange lotus flower known to the Sri Lankan people as “Padparadscha” or in botanical terms Nelumbo Nucifera Speciosa.

Padparadscha Sapphires must combine elements of pink and orange in one gem to rightly claim their Padparadscha title. One way to picture the color of Padparadscha Sapphires is to imagine sitting in front of a lazy fire on an isolated beach painted by the soothing hues of a tropical sunset. You then hold a fragrant lotus bloom to your nose and at that instant, the colors meld creating an aurora of orange and pink. This is Padparadscha!

Wonderfully romantic and delightfully seductive, Padparadscha Sapphires are so rare and beautiful that they are highly prized by collectors. But what are the origins of the word Padparadscha?

Often misunderstood, the modern word “Padparadscha” was in fact adopted from a German gemological text early in the 20th century. The word Padparadscha is actually a corruption of two Sanskrit and Singhalese words “padma raga.” While “padma” means lotus, the word “raga” is more complex, meaning color, attraction, desire and musical rhythm all rolled into one. Interestingly, the original term had much broader applications and was even used in ancient times to describe a variety of Ruby. A medieval Prakit text on gemology called the “Thakkura Pheru’s Rayanaparikkha,” describes Padparadscha Sapphires as “that which spreads its rays like the sun, is glossy, soft to the touch, resembling the fire, like molten gold and not worn off is Padma Raga.” Identical in appearance to Padparadscha Sapphires, Padparadscha Color Sapphires are created through recent innovations in heat treatment developed in Chanthaburi, Thailand, the location of the GemsTV jewelry workshops. To learn more about this treatment please click here.

Although the exact description is often debated, the beauty of these rare gemstones is not. While some continue to narrowly define Padparadscha as a Sri Lankan Sapphire, today Padparadscha and Padparadscha Color Sapphires are recognized as also hailing from Madagascar, Vietnam and Tanzania. Regardless of the locale, Padparadscha Sapphires and Padparadscha Color Sapphires, especially in larger sizes, are incredibly scarce.

Pink Sapphire

Immensely popular, Pink Sapphires range from pastel to vivacious pinks and share a color border with Ruby. Some Pink Sapphires are so close to this boundary they are called “Hot Pink.” Sharing exactly the same position on the color wheel, red and pink are technically the same color. It is the saturation or strength of this red hue that differentiates red from pink. The problem is that the border region where pink stops and red starts is open to interpretation. To put the issue to rest, the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) stated the following: “Pink is really just light red. The International Colored Gemstone Association has passed a resolution that the light shades of the red hue should be included in the Ruby category since it was too difficult to legislate where red ended and pink began. In practice, pink shades are now known either as Pink Ruby or Pink Sapphire.”

Purple Sapphire

Highly prized by collectors, Purple Sapphires (also once known as “oriental amethyst”) can display rich purple-pink colors reminiscent of orchids.

Yellow Sapphire

Ranging from pleasing pastel daisies to intensely beautiful canary yellows, Yellow Sapphires are renowned for their amazing luster and brilliance. Yellow Sapphires are not just beautiful, but are also one of the most coveted of all yellow gemstones.

Star Sapphire

With their very bright and lustrous star formations, Star Sapphires have traditionally been the most popular of all star gemstones. Glance at a Star Sapphire and you will see six or even twelve rayed stars silently gliding across the gemstone’s surface. This wonderful gem has long been coveted for its beautiful and mysterious optical effect known as “asterism.” “Asterism” or the “asteric effect” is caused by sets of parallel needle-like inclusions within the gemstone. While the gem gravels of Ratnapura in Sri Lanka are one of the world’s main sources of Star Sapphires, Black Star Sapphires are only found in the Ban Kha Ja district of the Chanthaburi province of Thailand.

In many cultures Star Sapphires were considered love charms; Helen of Troy was said to have owned a Star Sapphire and to have owed her conquests to it! In 17th century Germany, Star Sapphires were the “siegstein,” meaning “victory stone.” To others, Star Sapphires were the “stone of destiny,” as their crossing bands of light were believed to represent faith, hope and destiny. Star Sapphires were commonly used as talismans to protect against the evil eye and the Sinhalese used them to guard against witchcraft. Star Sapphires were particularly prized in ancient times as a guiding star for travelers. The famous English traveler, Sir Richard Francis Burton, possessed a large specimen which he referred to as his talisman, claiming it brought him good horses and prompt attention wherever he went. In fact, it was only in those places where he received proper attention that he would show it, a favor greatly appreciated because the sight of the gem was believed to bring good luck. One of the most unique of all talismanic gems, Star Sapphires are said to be so potent that they continue to exercise their good influence over the first wearer even if it has passed into other hands.

Sunset Sapphire

While it might not have the pinks to be Padparadscha, there is nothing about the beauty of Sunset Sapphires that is lacking. Displaying a bright blend of crimson tangerines reminiscent of an African sunset, Sunset Sapphire (also called Songea Sapphire) was only discovered in 1992. The world’s only Sunset Sapphire deposit is located 37 miles west of Songea, with the Masuguru district being the main mining area. Discoveries like Sunset Sapphire have helped Songea become the second most important Tanzanian mining area after Merelani (the home of Tanzanite).

White Sapphire

The ancient Egyptians associated White Sapphire with the all-seeing eye of Horus, while the Greeks linked it to their god Apollo, using it in the prophesizing of the oracles at Delphi.

The ancient Greeks unearthed White Sapphires from the island of Naxos in the Aegean Sea.

With none of the iron, chromium, titanium and other trace elements that give Sapphires their unique colors, White Sapphire is arguably Sapphire in its purest form. Displaying an exceptional luster and brilliance, it has become a popular alternative to Diamonds.

SAPPHIRE September’s birthstone
Origins Australia, Cambodia, China, Kenya, Madagascar, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Thailand & Vietnam
Colors Found Various
Family Corundum
Hardness 9.00
Refractive Index 1.76 – 1.78
Relative Density 3.95 – 4.03
Source: GemsTV.com

The word Sapphire, stated without a prefix, implies Blue Sapphires only. Sapphires of all other colors are assigned a color prefix or are collectively termed “Fancy Sapphires.”

Legends and lore

Blue is one of the favorite colors of both men and women and is a color psychologically linked to the emotions of sympathy, calmness and loyalty.

Legend has it that the first person to wear a Sapphire was Prometheus, the rival of Zeus, who took the gemstone from Cacaus, where he also stole fire from heaven for man.

The ancient Persians believed Sapphires were a chip from the pedestal that supported the earth and that its reflections gave the sky its colors.

Sapphire is mentioned in the Bible as being one of the twelve “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Sapphire is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle St. Paul.

The guardians of innocence, Sapphires symbolize truth, sincerity and faithfulness, and are thought to bring peace, joy and wisdom to their owners. The ancient Sinhalese believed that the powers of wisdom were contained within Sapphires and that when the wearer of a Sapphire faced challenging obstacles the gem’s power enabled them to find the correct solution.

In India it was believed that a Sapphire immersed in water formed an elixir that could cure the bite of scorpions and snakes. Alternatively, if it were worn as a talisman pendant, it would protect the wearer against evil spirits.

The following legend is Burmese in origin and highlights Sapphires’ connection with faithfulness: “Eons ago Tsun-Kyan-Kse, a golden haired goddess with Sapphire blue eyes, presided lovingly over the temple of Lao-Tsun. Everyday, the temple’s chief monk Mun-Ha, meditated before the golden goddess accompanied by his devoted companion, a green-eyed cat named Sinh. One day the temple was besieged by a group of terrible outlaws. When they threw Mun-Ha to the floor, Sinh leapt fiercely at the bandits, jumping up on his master’s chest to protect him. The wrong doers fled screaming in fear, never to return and in gratitude for his courage, the golden goddess awarded Sinh with her Sapphire blue eyes. To this day, Sinh’s ancestors guard over the temple.” The temple still stands and is populated by Siamese cats with striking blue eyes (typically this breed has green eyes).

For hundreds of years Blue Sapphires were the popular choice for engagement and wedding rings.

Just the facts

The modern popularity of Padparadscha and Pink Sapphires aside, Blue Sapphires are traditionally the most coveted members of the Sapphire family. Coming in a wide variety of hues, Sapphires range in color from pastel blues all the way through to the depths of midnight blue. Sapphires are identical to Ruby (the red variety of Corundum), except for one key component, their color. Sapphires are “allochromatic” (other colored) gems and obtain their colors due to the presence of trace elements including iron and titanium. The crystalline form of aluminum oxide, the name Corundum is believed to be derived from three ancient Tamil, Hindi and Sanskrit words for Rubies and Sapphires, “kurundam”, “kurund” or “kuruvinda” respectively.

While personal preference should always be your primary concern when purchasing colored gemstones, Sapphires that sit in the middle of the blue color range are historically the most coveted.

Sapphires are one of the toughest gemstones, second in hardness only to Diamonds. Corundum is primarily mined from alluvial deposits formed by weathered Corundum bearing rocks, and only occasionally from host rock deposits just beneath the earth’s surface.

Asterism or the “star effect” is a reflection effect that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the surface of a gem. This rare phenomenon is found in both Sapphires and Rubies. Asterism in Corundum is due to reflections from multitudes of exsolved needle inclusions (silk), which in most varieties consist of rutile.

As Sapphires from different locations can vary slightly in appearance, some of the main sources and varieties are detailed below.

Australian Sapphire

Some of the finest Sapphires in the world herald from this sun-burnt country. Top quality Australian Sapphires exhibit brilliant cornflower blues usually associated with those from Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Sapphires have been mined in Australia for over 100 years. The majority of Australian Sapphires come from three fields: the Anakie fields in central Queensland, the Lava Plains in northern Queensland and the New England fields around Inverell in the northeast of New South Wales.

During the 1980’s Australia produced approximately 70% of the world’s Sapphires and although production has decreased, international demand for Australian Sapphires remains high. Sapphires found in Australia originate from similar geological conditions to those of Thailand, Cambodia and parts of Madagascar, and thus possess similar characteristics.

Ceylon Sapphire (Sri Lanka)

A renowned source for gemstones, the island of Ceylon (renamed Sri Lanka in 1972) holds the earliest records for the mining of Sapphires (known in Sri Lanka as “nilkata”). A classic source of quality Sapphires since antiquity, King Solomon reportedly wooed the Queen of Sheba with Sri Lankan Sapphires. Sapphires from Sri Lanka first appeared in western jewelry among the Etruscans (600 – 275 BC) and were used by the Greeks and Romans from approximately 480 BC onward.

In Sri Lanka Sapphire mining occurs in the gem rich alluvial gravels found beneath the tea-covered slopes of Elahera and Ratnapura (which literally means “gem city”). Dating to 2,500 years ago, Ratnapura holds one of the earliest records for the mining of Sapphires. Located approximately 62 miles southeast of Sri Lanka’s capital city Colombo, Ratnapura is the main alluvial gem bed found in Sri Lanka. Here Sapphires are found embedded in layers of gravel and sand, in river beds, marshes, and fields or accumulated at the foot of hills. The alluvial deposits are commonly reached by 66 – 98 foot shafts where the gem rich gravel layer is laboriously extracted by hand.

Noted for their royal and cornflower blues, Ceylon Sapphires are synonymous with top quality and are highly coveted. At GemsTV, we correctly use the prefix “Ceylon” to denote a quality as well as an origin (not all Sri Lankan Sapphires can be called “Ceylon”). Ceylon Sapphires received a boost in their popularity in 1981 when Prince Charles gave Lady Diana an engagement ring set with a stunning 18 carat Ceylon Sapphire.

Kanchanaburi Sapphire (Thailand)

The sleepy province of Kanchanaburi, renowned for the bridge over the River Kwai, rests among the jungle valleys of western Thailand. Kanchanaburi’s Bo Ploi Sapphire mines were discovered in 1918 and today remain one of world’s premier sources of Blue Sapphires. The Sapphires of Bo Ploi are mined from alluvial deposits spread over 1.2 square miles. The miners of Bo Ploi must unearth over 50 tons of alluvial soil to extract just 1 carat of Sapphire crystals. Sapphires have been heavily mined from the Bo Ploi mines in the last ten years and are approaching depletion. This increasing rarity makes these Sapphires a must for any jewelry collection.

Madagascan Sapphire

Today, Madagascar also provides some of the highest quality Sapphires. Sapphires were first unearthed on this island in the early 1990’s. The Madagascan gem fields now reportedly account for approximately 20% of the world’s Sapphires. The majority of Madagascar’s Sapphires come from the prolific gem fields of Ilakaka, Antiermene and Diego Suarez.

Midnight Blue Sapphire

Midnight Blue Sapphires combine deep rich colors and a spellbinding luster all in one gemstone. Deep blues intermingle in Midnight Blue Sapphires as if to reveal the secret of the sky at night. This accentuates their luster and is one reason for their enduring popularity. Mined in a wide variety of countries including Madagascar, Australia, Nigeria, Thailand, Vietnam and China, Midnight Blue Sapphires are a gemstone whose colors are beyond vivid. But there is nothing black about Midnight Blue Sapphire. To visualize this, think of the color of a desert sky shortly after the sun has set, with stars rising in the distance. This is the color of Midnight Blue Sapphire, an intense azure hue unmatched in the gem kingdom.

Nigerian Sapphire

Nigeria plays a key role in supplying the world with some of the most popular gemstones. Nigerian Sapphires are mined at Nisama Jama’a in Nigeria’s Kaduna State.

Pailin Sapphire (Cambodia)

The Cambodian city of Pailin (the ancient Khmer word for “Blue Sapphire”) is steeped in local folklore regarding its precious treasures: “Long ago, people hunting in the forests around Pailin encountered a magical old lady called Yiey Yat (“yiey” means grandmother in Khmer) living as a hermit in the mountains. Fearing for the local wildlife, she told the villagers that if they stopped hunting, the gods would reward them with something of far greater value in the streams and rivers of Mount Yat. The people went there and saw an otter (“pey” in Khmer) playing (“leng” in Khmer) in a stream. Swimming up to them, when the otter opened its mouth, it was full of gems!” As a result, the area and its Sapphires are known as “pey leng,” which when translated to Thai became Pailin. Even today, many people visit the shrine of Yiey Yat to ask her for riches.

Shangdong Sapphire (China)

While China has never been considered an historical source of Corundum (domestic finds were not reported until the late 1970’s), the Chinese were aware of and coveted Ruby and Sapphire from other locales as early as 319 AD. Chinese Sapphire deposits are widely distributed over 20 of the country’s provinces, although they are mainly found along the eastern coastline. In all of these places, Sapphires occur in basalts, similar to those mined in Australia. Among these localities, the deposit in Shangdong province has the best quality. Shangdong Sapphire was discovered near Wutu, Changle County, Shangdong province in the late 1980’s, initially in alluvial deposits and later in the host basalt. Gem mining occurs in the secondary alluvial deposits while the primary deposits are worked for mineral specimens. Generally, Chinese Blue Sapphires have a deep blue color, but similar to Sapphires from Ban Kha Ja, Chanthaburi and Australia, greenish blues and yellows are also found. Chinese Sapphires are a lot more than dark inky gems that appear more black than blue. While Shangdong Sapphire has royal blues that are beyond vivid, it also has a transparency far greater than most Midnight Blue Sapphire. In the Shangdong province there are reportedly at least 20 small Sapphire mines operated by 200 – 300 miners.

Umba River Sapphire (Tanzania)

On the Great North Road in Tanzania, between the plains of the Serengeti and the foothills of Mount Kilimanjaro lies Arusha, the gateway to the beating heart of Africa and home to the fabled gemstone mines of the Umba Valley. Collecting in rich alluvial deposits that run the course of the valley, Umba River Sapphires are sourced using age-old mining techniques by Waarusha and Wameru miners whose knowledge of gemstones has been handed down for generations.

SAPPHIRE: September’s birthstone
Origins: Australia, Cambodia, China, Kenya, Madagascar, Nigeria, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Thailand & Vietnam
Colors Found: Various
Family: Corundum
Hardness: 9.00
Refractive Index: 1.76 – 1.78
Relative Density: 3.95 – 4.03
Source: GemsTV.com

Legends and lore

The historical mystique and beauty of Rubies is as colorful as the legends and lore that surround this most precious of gems.

The earliest record for the mining of Rubies dates to more than 2,500 years ago in Sri Lanka, “the jewel box of the Indian Ocean,” where it is called “rathu kata.” Rubies from Sri Lanka first appeared in western jewelry among the Etruscans (600 – 275 BC) and were used by the Greeks and Romans from approximately 480 BC onward.

Prized throughout history, many believed that mystical powers lay hidden within this intensely colored red gemstone. The fiery crimson color of Rubies caused many civilizations to associate them with passion, love and romance. Rubies were also thought to bestow wisdom, health and luck in gambling. According to oriental beliefs, Ruby is the “gem of the sun.”

Mentioned in Sanskrit texts, the ancient Hindus were so enchanted by the color of Rubies that they called them “ratnaraj,” the king of gems. The ancient Hindus thought that the colors of Rubies were due to an inextinguishable fire that burned inside the gem that would endow its wearer with long life and even cause water to boil!

As in Sanskrit texts, biblical references to Ruby (all red gemstones were also collectively called Carbuncle at this time) refer to it as a most precious gem. In the King James Version of the Bible, Ruby (and its namesake Carbuncle) is mentioned numerous times:

Exodus 28:17
And thou shalt set in it settings of stones, even four rows of stones: the first row shall be a Sardius, a Topaz, and a Carbuncle: this shall be the first row.

Exodus 39:10
And they set in it four rows of stones: the first row was a Sardius, a Topaz, and a Carbuncle: this was the first row.

Ezekiel 28:13
Thou hast been in Eden the garden of God; every precious stone was thy covering, the Sardius, Topaz, and the Diamond, the Beryl, the Onyx, and the Jasper, the Sapphire, the Emerald, and the Carbuncle, and Gold: the workmanship of thy tabrets and of thy pipes was prepared in thee in the day that thou wast created.

Isaiah 54:12
And I will make thy windows of Agates, and thy gates of Carbuncles, and all thy borders of pleasant stones.

Job 28:18
No mention shall be made of Coral, or of Pearls: for the price of wisdom is above Rubies.

Proverbs 3:15
She is more precious than Rubies: and all the things thou canst desire are not to be compared unto her.

Proverbs 8:11
For wisdom is better than Rubies; and all the things that may be desired are not to be compared to it.

Proverbs 20:15
There is gold, and a multitude of Rubies: but the lips of knowledge are a precious jewel.

Lamentations 4:7
Her Nazarites were purer than snow, they were whiter than milk, they were more ruddy in body than Rubies, their polishing was of Sapphire.

Interestingly, the gems called “Rubies” in the Old Testament may have actually been Spinel or Garnet. Up until the 18th century, when chemical testing was improved, most red gems were called Rubies. In fact, many of the famous Rubies in the crown jewels of Europe have since been identified as Spinel or Garnet. For example, the Black Prince Ruby that rests proudly at the centre of the British Imperial State Crown is actually a red Spinel!

Ancient Sinhalese legends (modern day Sri Lanka) relate the story of the destruction of their demonic King Ravana. They believed that after his demise, his blood turned into Rubies resulting in their intense red color.

For over 2,000 years Sri Lanka has supplied the world with fine Star Rubies. In fact, Sri Lanka was most probably the original source of this gem. The ancient Sinhalese believed that a Star Ruby protected the wearer from witchcraft. It was considered so powerful a talisman that even when the original owner passed the gem onto someone else, they continued to receive its protection. In Europe, Star Rubies were sometimes called “the three swords” and were said to chase away evil, bring good luck and assist one in finding a fine spouse.

Native Americans believed that offerings of a fine Ruby resulted in rebirth as a powerful Chief.

Some cultures believed Ruby’s blood-like color would protect the wearer from injury. In fact, ancient Burmese warriors believed that when a Ruby was inserted beneath the skin it generated a mystical force, making them unconquerable in battle. Rubies were once known by the Burmese as “blood drops from the heart of the Mother Earth” and were worn by them as a talisman to protect against illness or misfortune.

Dr. Edward Gübelin’s book, “Burma, Land der Pagoden” (Burma, Land of Pagodas), includes a famous Burmese Ruby legend: “One day, the king of the valley, a grand old eagle, was circling over his kingdom and searching for a worthy prey. As he spread his circles ever wider in the shining blue of the heavens, he suddenly spied on the valley floor a piece of fresh meat of the color of purest blood and more enticing than he had ever seen in all his flights throughout the whole world. There is the noble food, for which I have been yearning, said the lord in the air, and plunged down on to his chosen prey. But his claws, whose sharpness and strength had hitherto hooked into the thickest skin, could do nothing against this presumed prey, colored like a living heart. He kept on attacking – he, the lord of the valley, accustomed to victory! – But in vain! He began to fear that age had impaired his strength, so he ascended into the air to think it over. He also sought out other prey in order to test his strength, but left it lying carelessly as soon as he had convinced himself of his undiminished powers, in order to renew his attack on the coveted piece of booty. Finally, it dawned on him: this was no piece of flesh, but a hallowed stone, fashioned out of fire and the blood of Mother Earth. Reverently, the wise old King of the Birds grasped it and carried it to the highest summit of the highest mountain – unattainable to all living beings on this earth. The valley in which he had found the precious stone was Mogok, and the stone the first Ruby in the world”.

In the 13th century, the renowned explorer Marco Polo wrote that Kublai Kahn, the Mongol Emperor of China, once offered an entire city for a Ruby the size of a man’s finger.

Because of its fluorescent properties, a giant Ruby once lit an entire chamber in a palace of a Chinese emperor!

In the Middle Ages, Rubies were thought to contain prophetic powers. It was believed that a Ruby could warn its owner of misfortunes by deepening in color.

Ralph Waldo Emerson, an American essayist, poet, and leader of the transcendentalist movement in the early 19th century, wrote the following poem about Rubies: “They brought me Rubies from the mine, and held them to the sun; I said, “They are drops of frozen wine from Eden’s vats that run.” I look’d again – I thought them hearts of friends, to friends unknown; Tides that should warm each neighboring life are lock’d in sparkling stone. But fire to thaw that ruddy snow, to break enchanted ice, and give love’s scarlet tides to flow, when shall that sun arise?”

Just the facts

As “allochromatic” (other colored) gems, Ruby’s colors are due to trace elements. Apart from their color, Rubies are identical to Sapphires and are comprised of the mineral known as Corundum. The crystalline form of aluminum oxide, the name Corundum is believed to be derived from three ancient Tamil, Hindi and Sanskrit words for Rubies and Sapphires, “kurundam,” “kurund” or “kuruvinda” respectively.

Did you know that Rubies are rarer than Diamonds? In the last 60 years hardly a month has passed without a new Diamond deposit being discovered. In contrast, Rubies are only found in a handful of mines worldwide.

Did you know that Rubies are more expensive than Diamonds? A 16 carat Ruby that sold at Sotheby’s in New York in October 1988 fetched a staggering US$3,630,000! Rubies are one of the world‘s most expensive gems, but like all gems, quality determines price.

Second only to Diamonds in hardness, Rubies are one of the toughest gemstones and with no cleavage, breakage rarely occurs. This combined with the fact that Rubies come in many different shapes and sizes, makes them perfect for all types of jewelry.

Color is the most important factor when evaluating Rubies. While cutting and size (fine Rubies over 2 carats are very scarce) is also important, transparency is secondary. Why is this? Colored by chromium and other trace elements, Rubies formed millions of years ago deep within the earth. As very few Rubies crystallized undisturbed, a whole host of tiny irregularities (inclusions) are a characteristic of their formation. Far from being flaws, inclusions are a fascinating hallmark of authenticity that records a gem’s natural relationship with the Earth. In terms of clarity, Rubies tend to be less clean than Sapphires.

While color preferences are subjective, the best Rubies possess an intense, almost electric red effect in daylight due to fluorescence. The ideal Ruby displays an intense, rich crimson without being too light or too dark. But as Rubies come in many different colors and sizes, ultimately your personal preference should be your primary concern. Remember, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and will also be tempered by what you can afford.

Microscopic rutile inclusions, commonly known as “silk,” are a normal characteristic of Rubies. When evenly distributed, small quantities of “silk” enhance a Ruby’s beauty and value by creating a soft uniform distribution of sparkling light.

Asterism or the “star effect” is a reflection effect that appears as two or more intersecting bands of light across the surface of a gem. This rare phenomenon is found in both Rubies and Sapphires. Asterism in Corundum is due to reflections from multitudes of exsolved needle inclusions (silk), which in most varieties consist of rutile.

Burma, by reputation and experience, continues to produce some of the world’s finest Rubies. While the original locality for Ruby was most likely Sri Lanka (Ceylon), the classic source is the Mogok Stone Tract in upper Burma. So much so that one of the recognized titles of the Kings of Burma was “Lord of the Rubies.” You may have noticed throughout the book that I call the country “Burma” not Myanmar. In 1989 the charismatic opposition leader Aung San Suu Kui was placed under house arrest and the country was renamed Myanmar. Many democrats oppose the name change and I follow their example.

While “pigeon’s blood” was once used to describe a rare and valuable Burmese Ruby color it has now largely fallen out of use – when you think about it, this description is a little grotesque. Burmese Rubies come from the Mogok Valley in north-central Burma and Möng Hsu in northeast Burma (also spelt Monghsu or Maing Hsu, it is pronounced “Mong-Shoe”).

Möng Hsu is 140 miles southeast of Mogok. It is located between the Nam Pang and Salween Rivers. It is closed to foreigners and the road is so bad it takes around 14 hours to travel there from the nearest town of Taunggyi. Typical of many areas in Burma’s Shan States, the population of the Möng Hsu area consist of Shans in the valleys with hill tribes (Palaungs at Möng Hsu) living in the mountains. The Palaungs cultivated tea before the discovery of Ruby. While Ruby mining in Mogok dates to the 6th century, Rubies were not discovered in Möng Hsu until 1991 when a local resident, who used to be a Ruby miner at Mogok, went bathing in the Nam Nga stream and found red gems between his toes and among the pebbles on the river’s banks. Thus began Burma’s most recent Ruby rush as the town’s population quadrupled overnight from approximately 8,000 people to over 30,000 people at the peak. This tapered off by 1993, but since the advent of high temperature treatment Möng Hsu has become increasingly important source of Burmese Ruby. You can learn more about gemstone treatments here.

Ruby mining in Burma was initially restricted to alluvial deposits, but has now also moved to host rock deposits in the surrounding hills. Burma’s Rubies occur in a crystalline limestone (marble). Millions of years of weathering freed the Rubies from their host rock, carrying them down from the hills to the valley floors, where they have settled in the bottom of the streams and rivers. It is from these ancient alluvial river gravels (know in Burma as “byon”) that the majority of gems have been recovered.

Our Madagascan Rubies are mined at high altitude in a relatively new deposit found in July 2004, deep within an impenetrable jungle. The only way to reach the Ruby mines near the mining village of Moramanga is by helicopter or a grueling long day’s trek (11 hours) on a muddy trail through dense mountainous rainforest from the Madagascan town of Andilamena. However, since mid-2006 these deposits have reportedly been nearing depletion. This increasing scarcity makes these Rubies a must for any jewelry collection.

Apart from Madagascar, we also source Rubies from India, Kenya, Mozambique, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Vietnam and of course, Thailand. However, strict environmental regulations combined with depletion have resulted in the reduction of Thai gem mining.

With approximately 70% of the world’s Sapphire output and 90% of its Ruby production passing though Thailand (Source: ICA 2006 World Colored Gemstone Mining Report), our gemstone buyers are among the first to choose the finest examples.

RUBY July’s birthstone
Origins India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Thailand & Vietnam
Colors Found Red
Family Corundum
Hardness 9.00
Refractive Index 1.76 – 1.78
Relative Density 3.97 – 4.05
Source: GemsTV.com

Although Quartz of sufficient beauty to be set into jewelry is not available in great abundance, Quartz is found in many geological environments and is a component of almost every rock type. It is also the most varied in terms of varieties, colors and forms. The gem varieties of Quartz have been used as gemstones for thousands of years.

Legends and lore

The ancients of India considered Quartz to have special properties as transformers as well as keepers of energy. To this day Quartz crystals are used universally in meditation, as they are believed to possess healing properties and other diverse metaphysical powers.

Folklorists classify Quartz as a receptive gemstone credited with the ability to attract positive energies, such as peace and love. The subtle energy of Quartz is said to balance the emotions, giving inner peace, harmony and enhancing the bonds of relationships. It is also said to calm aggression and increase self-esteem.

Just the facts

Quartz gemstones are commonly separated into two groups based on the size of their individual crystals.

The macrocrystalline Quartz (large crystal) group includes many popular gemstones such as Amethyst, Ametrine, Citrine, Green Amethyst (Prasiolite), Rose Quartz, Rutilated Quartz, Smoky Quartz and Tiger’s Eye.

Cryptocrystalline Quartz includes species whose individual crystals are too small to be easily distinguished. Apart from being a variety within the group, Chalcedony is also a catchall term to describe cryptocrystalline Quartz and includes many gems that have been coveted since antiquity such as Agate, Carnelian, Sard, Chrysoprase, Bloodstone and Jasper.

Phenomena sometimes observed in Quartz include asterism (star effect) and chatoyancy (cat’s eye effect).

Amethyst is the queen of the Quartz varieties and in better qualities it is among the most coveted of Quartzes (please click here for more).

Ametrine is a multicolor variety that is part Amethyst colored and part Citrine colored (please click here for more).

Blue Moon Quartz is also called Dumortierite Quartz or sometimes just Dumortierite. It is an opaque to translucent blue variety of Quartz, owing its color to microscopic inclusions of fibrous magnesioriebeckite or crocidolite. Blue Moon Quartz is from one of the old mines of southern Brazil in a region called Uruguaiana in the Rio Grande Do Sul state. The “Blue Moon” prefix is self-explanatory: the gem looks like a full moon shimmering on a clear night. For crystal healers, Blue Moon Quartz is a gem that can enhance organizational abilities, self discipline and orderliness.

Citrine is a yellow variety of Quartz that takes its name from “citron,” the French word for lemon (please click here for more).

Phantom Quartz (also known as Ghost Crystals, Specter Crystals and Shadow Crystals) is an unusual gemstone that exhibits a phenomenon called a “phantom.” Phantoms can sometimes be seen in the interior of Quartz crystals as a permanent record of earlier stages in the crystal’s formation, much like growth rings in a tree.

Green Amethyst (Prasiolite) is a confusing gem as it is traded under a variety of names and can easily be mistaken for other gem types (please click here for more).

Rainbow Quartz (including Lavender Quartz, Neptune Quartz, Fuchsia Quartz and Coral Quartz) is visually similar to Mystic Topaz and is produced using the same physical vapor deposition (PVD) coating process. Applied to top quality natural White Quartz, the treatment is permanent with normal wear (please click here for more).

Smoky Quartz is an earth toned transparent Quartz that comes in a variety of shades, including cognac. Also known as “champagne on ice,” Smoky Quartz gets its rich warm colors from aluminum. A variety of Smoky Quartz is Cairngorm, which owes its name to the legendary source in the Scottish Highlands. Smoky Quartz is the national gem of Scotland, whose national scepter includes a large Smoky Quartz.

Rock Crystal (also known as White Quartz) is colorless Quartz.

Rose Quartz is the pink variety of Quartz. Rarely transparent, facet grade gems will usually display a beautiful misty appearance.

Golden Rutile Quartz (also known as Rutilite, Rutilated Quartz, Venus’ Hair or Cupid’s Darts) is a beautiful gemstone produced by large inclusions of golden rutile needles in clear colorless Quartz.

Tiger’s Eye is simply chatoyant Quartz (please click here for more).

Star Quartz is a fascinating gem that clearly displays asterism (star effect) and is colorless, blue, pink or silver. The stars are six-rayed and roll around the gem as it is moved.

QUARTZ Ancient gemstone
Origins Australia, Bolivia, Brazil, India, Kenya, Madagascar, Mozambique, Mexico, Russia, South Africa, Tanzania, Uraguay & Zambia
Colors Found Various
Family Quartz
Hardness 6.50 – 7.00
Refractive Index 1.53 – 1.55
Relative Density 2.58 – 2.91
Source: GemsTV.com

Marcasite is often used as a jewelry trade name for Pyrite. Although they are called Marcasite, they are actually Pyrite, as true Marcasite is unsuitable for jewelry. The confusion between the two dates back several hundreds years due to their similar appearance. Marcasite’s name was derived from “marqashith,” the Arabic word for Pyrite, after an old province in northeastern Persia. Marcasite jewelry (Pyrite) is a popular style that became fashionable during Queen Victoria’s reign. Marcasite jewelry normally uses Pyrite cut and polished in a circular outline (square cut gems are occasionally used) and pavé set between sterling silver beads to enhance their brilliance. They were originally used because they catch the light and glow like small Diamonds. Today, Marcasite jewelry is often fashioned into 925 sterling silver rings, earrings, pendants, brooches, necklaces and bracelets.

Legends and lore

Used by the ancient Greeks in pins, earrings and amulets, Pyrite was once polished by Native Americans and used as mirrors. Pyrite is also known as “healer’s gold” and is highly regarded by crystal healers as a gemstone of intellect and protection.

Just the facts

Pyrite is composed of iron sulfide. When found in its raw state, Pyrite crystals can be shaped as cubes, octahedrons and pyritohedrons (12 faces). Twinning causes “iron crosses” that look like interpenetrating cubes. Collectors particularly favor a flattened nodular variety called “Pyrite suns” or “Pyrite dollars.”

Pyrite is present in igneous rocks as an accessory mineral, in sedimentary rocks, especially black shale, and in metamorphic rocks, most notably in slates. Pyrite is sometimes found as a replacement mineral in fossils.

PYRITE Called Marcasite in the jewelry trade
Origins Austria, China, Mexico, Romania, Russia & South Africa
Colors Found Golden yellow
Family Pyrite
Hardness 6.00 – 6.50
Refractive Index Cannot be determined
Relative Density 5.00 – 5.20
Source: GemsTV.com

Named after the Dutch mineralogist and early governor of the “Cape of Good Hope” colony, Colonel Hendrik Von Prehn (1733-1785), who discovered it in the Cradock district of the eastern Cape province, South Africa in the early 18th century, Prehnite was the first mineral to be named after a person.
Legend and lore

Known as the “prediction stone” among spiritual healers, it is believed that Prehnite can enhance one’s dreaming and remembrance. Some crystal healers also believe that Prehnite’s color and unusual touch are ideal for stress release.
Just the facts

Prehnite’s bright, almost luminescent, swirling green colors (reminiscent of Jade), mesmerizing clarity and striking luster, make it an extremely attractive collector’s gem. In his book, “Gemstones of the World,” Walter Schumann describes Prehnite as a transparent to translucent gemstone, which accounts for its “cloudy” appearance. This is totally normal and like many gemstones, its distinctive appearance is key to its appeal. While its main colors are a range of pleasant greens that are often unique to Prehnite, yellow, gray, colorless or white varieties also exist. Prehnite has some interesting common names including “grape jade” (in China it is called “putao yu,” meaning grape jade, due to crystal formations that look like a bunch of grapes), “cape emerald” (for the location of its discovery and visual similarities to Emeralds) and “prediction stone” (see above).

Prehnite is usually found in cavities along fractures of basalt. The Australian deposits occur in scattered outcrops of Antrim Plateau Volcanics of early Cambrian age (about 570 million years old) and consist of massive basalt up to 197 feet thick. Although the primary Australian deposits cover thousands of square miles in the east Kimberley (Western Australia) and the adjoining Northern Territory, gem quality Prehnite is very scarce. With about 90% of the world’s reserves of this beautiful green gem, most of the Prehnite you’ll see on GemsTV hails from Australia.

PREHNITE Also known as the Prediction Stone
Origins Australia
Colors Found Colorless, green, gray, white & yellow
Family Silicate
Hardness 6.00 – 6.50
Refractive Index 1.61 – 1.67
Relative Density 2.82 – 2.94
Source: GemsTV.com

Just the Facts

Pezzottaite was discovered in November 2002 at the Sakavalana mine located about 87 miles southwest of Antsirabe in southern Madagascar. The initial deposit yielded some extremely rare large crystals and it is now practically depleted although small amounts are now mined elsewhere in Madagascar. The Sakavalana pegmatite where Pezzottaite was discovered was mined by the French for Tourmaline during the 1940’s. The initial Pezzottaite deposit was discovered in a large crystal bearing cavity that also contained Tourmaline and Spodumene. Not surprisingly, Pezzottaite was initially mistakenly sold as Tourmaline in Madagascar.

Pezzottaite is mined from granitic pegmatites using hand tools, making its extraction slow and difficult.

Having a slightly different chemical composition to Bixbite (Be3Al2Si6O18), it was named Pezzottaite (Cs[Be2Li]Al2Si6O18) in September 2003 after Dr. Federico Pezzotta of the Museo Civico di Storia Naturale, Milan, Italy, in recognition of his contributions to the mineralogy of Madagascar.

Pezzottaite has a variety of trade names including Madagascan Raspberyl, Raspberyl and Raspberry Beryl. While Pezzottaite is closely related to the Beryl family and is visually similar, it is in fact a unique species, making its trade names somewhat misleading.

Like Emeralds, inclusions in Pezzottaite are common, especially in the larger carat weights. However, their rarity and novelty for gemstone collectors has always been the primary factor. Pezzottaite has all the attributes a gem needs – beauty, durability and rarity. Far scarcer than Ruby, these rare gems truly are a unique fashion statement.
PEZZOTTAITE Initially confused with Bixbite
Origins Madagascar
Colors Found Pink to raspberry
Family Pezzottaite
Hardness 7.50 – 8.00
Refractive Index 1.60 – 1.62
Relative Density 3.04 – 3.14
Source: GemsTV.com

Peridot’s name origin is uncertain, but several theories exist. Some sources speculate that it comes from the 13th century Middle English word “peridote,” meaning “bright spot” or “bright button,” an apt description for this gem given its brilliance. Other sources attribute it to the French “peritot,” meaning “unclear,” probably due to its silky appearance. While some sources suggest the word Peridot comes from the Greek “peridona,” indicating plentiful, this seems unlikely as this gem was scarce even in classical times. Given the ancient source of Peridot, the most likely candidate is the Arabic word “faridat,” which simply means “gem.”

Legends and lore

Popular in early Greek and Roman jewelry, Peridot has been coveted since 1500 BC when the Egyptians started mining it on Zeberget Island, later known as St. John’s Island, about 50 miles off the Egyptian coast in the Red Sea. Interestingly, “zabargad” is the Arabic word for Peridot.

Peridot mining was traditionally done at night when the gem’s natural glow made it easier to spot. The ancient Egyptians even believed that Peridot became invisible under the sun’s rays. They also believed that Peridot was colored by the golden glow of their sun god Ra, and was thus a powerful protector from harm.

Hawaiians believe Peridot is the goddess Pele’s tears, while it is mentioned in the Bible (using its old name Chrysolite, meaning “golden stone” in Greek) as being one of the “stones of fire” (Ezekiel 28:13-16) that were given to Moses and set in the breastplate of Aaron (Exodus 28:15-30). Peridot is also one of the twelve gemstones set in the foundations of the city walls of Jerusalem (Revelations 21:19) and associated with the Apostle Bartholomew.

While Cleopatra reportedly had a fine collection of “Emerald” jewelry, it was in reality predominantly Peridot.

The Ottoman Sultans gathered the largest collection of Peridot during their 600-year reign from 1300-1918, with an impressive array of both loose gemstones as well as earrings, rings and other jewelry.

Powdered Peridot has been used to cure asthma and a Peridot placed under the tongue of someone in the grip of a fever was believed to lessen their thirst. Legend has it that drinking from a Peridot goblet can increase the potency of medicines.

Pirates believed Peridot had the power to drive away evil spirits (and the night’s terrors), especially if set in gold. But as protection from evil spirits they believed it must be pierced, strung on donkey hair and worn on the left arm.

Possibly the most unusual Peridot is that which comes from meteorites called Pallasites, after their 1772 discoverer, a German scientist called Peter Simon Pallas. Some have even been faceted and set in jewelry, one of the few extraterrestrial gemstones known to man. In 2003 Peridot was discovered on Mars, making it the first gemstone to be discovered on another planet.

Just the facts

Peridot is the gem variety of Olivine and exhibits colors ranging from golden lime greens to rich grass greens. Traditionally, the most coveted color hues have been the rich grass greens. However, many Peridots with slight yellowish hues still exhibit attractive colors that are extremely popular. This once again demonstrates that your individual preference should always be the primary factor when collecting colored gemstones.

The elements that give gemstones their color are termed “idiochromatic” or “self colored” if they are an intrinsic ingredient of the gem (meaning the color results from a coloring element that is always incorporated into the crystal structure of the mineral) and “allochromatic” or “other colored” if they are trace elements (small amounts of an element that is not part of the normal crystal causes the color). In many gems, the major element in the chemical composition is colorless in a pure state such as Topaz or Sapphires. If these “allochromatic” gems occur in a variety of colors such as Ruby or Sapphire, then it is usually the result of trace elements. In the case of an “idiochromatic” gem like Peridot, the coloring element iron is actually part of the crystal, meaning the gem is always the same color (Peridot is always green).

Because of the way Peridot splits and bends light, it has an attractive velvety, silky appearance with a shining rich glow.

While the San Carlos Apache Reservation, Arizona has the world’s largest gem quality Peridot deposit, China has recently become a major producer. In 1994, an exciting new deposit was discovered in Pakistan, producing some of the finest Peridot ever seen. The new mine is located 15,000 feet above sea level in the Nanga Parbat region in the far west of the Himalayan Mountains in the Pakistani part of Kashmir.
PERIDOT August’s birthstone
Origins China, Kenya, Pakistan, South Africa, Tanzania & US
Colors Found Green to yellowish green
Family Olivine
Hardness 6.50 – 7.00
Refractive Index 1.65 – 1.70
Relative Density 3.28 – 3.48
Source: GemsTV.com

Thankfully, the days of island inhabitants free diving into azure oceans to harvest Pearls are more or less over. The lust for uncultured Pearls once decimated entire species of mollusks, relegating this gem of the sea to the elite few. Today, thanks to the innovations of Japanese noodle maker, Kokichi Mikimoto (the man who perfected Pearl farming and who convinced the world to accept them), these fragile ecosystems are now safe, with natural uncultured Pearls usually appearing only as antiques.

Legends and lore

The Romans were particularly enamored of this gem of the sea. Rome’s Pearl craze reached its zenith during the 1st century BC when upper class Roman women (the lower ranks were forbidden from wearing them) wore their Pearls to bed so they could be reminded of their wealth immediately upon awakening. They also sewed so many into their gowns that they actually walked on their Pearl-encrusted hems. The famously excessive Emperor Caligula, having made his beloved horse a Consul, decorated it with a Pearl necklace.

A lover of luxury, Julius Caesar, apart from his well known military accomplishments, was also an expert in Pearls and could reportedly accurately ascertain their value by simply weighing them in his hand.

Cleopatra flaunted her enormous wealth and power during a competition with Marc Anthony to see who could host the most lavish dinner party. She allegedly crushed a Pearl from one of her earrings into a glass of wine to demonstrate to Marc Anthony how she could drink the wealth of nations.

The first known source of Pearls was the Persian Gulf and the ancients of the area believed that Pearls were a symbol of the moon and had magical powers. Indeed, the oldest known Pearl jewelry is a necklace found in the sarcophagus of a Persian princess who died in 520 BC.

The earliest written record of their value is in the “Shu King,” a 23 BC Chinese book in which the scribe sniffs that a lesser king sent tribute of “strings of Pearls not quite round.” The Chinese also used Pearls in medicinal ways to cure eye ailments, heart trouble, indigestion, fever and bleeding. To this day Pearl powder is still popular in China as a skin whitener and cosmetic.

In India, Pearls were believed to give peace of mind and strengthen the body and soul.

In antiquity, it was thought that swallowing whole or powdered Pearls cured matters of the mind and heart, strengthened nerves and even improved virility.

The Koran states that a good Muslim, upon entering the Kingdom of Heaven, “is crowned with Pearls of incomparable luster, and is attended by beautiful maidens resembling hidden Pearls.”

While Queen Isabella had to hock her impressive collection of jewelry to fund Christopher Columbus’ expedition to discover the New World, the investment paid off as the discovery of Pearls in Central American waters added to the wealth of Spain. The flood of American Pearls onto the European market earned the newly discovered continent the nickname “land of Pearls.” Unfortunately, greed and lust for these gems of the sea resulted in the depletion of virtually all the American Pearl oyster populations by the 17th century.

During the Dark Ages, while fair maidens of nobility cherished delicate Pearl necklaces, gallant knights often wore Pearls onto the battlefield. They believed that the magic possessed by the lustrous gems would protect them from harm.

Pearls have long been considered ideal wedding gifts because they symbolize purity and innocence. In the Hindu religion, the presentation of an un-drilled Pearl and its piercing has formed part of the marriage ceremony. In the West, Pearls are the recommended gift for couples celebrating their 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries.

Just the facts

The Pearl begins life as a foreign body (a grain of sand, coral or parasite), which makes its way into the shell of a marine or freshwater mollusk – usually oysters or clams. The mollusk’s defense mechanism starts to coat the intruder with layers of a slightly iridescent substance, “nacre” (from the Arabic word for shell “naqqarah”), which is the attractive outside of the Pearl. In its natural environment this will, after many years, form a Pearl that is of a significant size and quality.

Unlike natural Pearls, cultivated Pearls do not begin as accidental intruders. First cultivated by the Chinese as early as the 12th Century, the process starts with “nucleation.” A cultivated Pearl usually begins its life when a spherical bead or a piece of mantle tissue is placed inside the mollusk. After this seeding process, the Pearl farmers place the mollusks in wire-mesh baskets and suspend them in water. The aquaculturists carefully tend to the mollusks, overseeing their development for 18 months to 5 years. The depth of the nacre coating, an important factor in determining the color of Pearls, depends on how long the seeded Pearls are left in place before being harvested. Usually, only half of the Pearls will be marketable and less than 10% of these will be top-quality. While Pearls are classified as colored gems, there is a unique appeal about them. Unlike other gemstones that are born of earth and fire, Pearls are waterborn organic gems that originate from living animals. They are also unique in the sense that the principals of the 4 C’s (color, cut, clarity and carat weight) cannot be applied to them. The evaluation of Pearls requires a different set of criteria. A Pearl is appraised according to the display of color, luster, surface clarity, shape and size.

Pearl’s two colors

The body colors themselves can be white, cream, pink, rose, golden, silver, gray and black. As color preference is subjective, there is no such thing as a bad body color – it is purely a matter of choice. Apart from the obvious body color, there is actually a second color to consider when evaluating Pearls. This second color is actually a result of subtle iridescence. While not instantly obvious, especially when similar to the body color, this effect lends Pearls much of their allure. Typically, this iridescence is seen most strongly on the crest of a Pearl’s horizon. This beautiful, shimmering effect is known as the “orient” or overtone and denotes the depth of the nacre. Pearls with rich colorful orients are generally more coveted than those that have little or no orient.

Pearl luster

Pearls are bright, reflective gemstones. While Pearls with clean and even surfaces reflect more light than Pearls with blemished surfaces, please remember that as a natural creation, like inclusions in mineral gems, most Pearls do have blemishes.

Intelligent jewelers solve this problem by concealing blemishes near the drill holes.

Weight and size

As with other gemstones, value and size are intrinsically linked. The bigger the Pearl the more desirable it becomes. However, there is one important difference: Pearls are measured and expressed by their size, not weight (e.g., 8.5 millimeters).

Pearl locations

As with all things natural, Pearls can only grow in the right conditions. Different Pearl varieties from different locations command different prices. The best quality Pearls are found in the waters of French Polynesia, Japan and China. However, due to the different environments, mollusk species and farming techniques, all cultivated Pearls have their own distinctive qualities. The three main Pearl varieties on GemsTV are Freshwater Pearls, Tahitian Pearls and South Sea Pearls.

Freshwater Pearls

Although historically originating in Japan, China is now a major producer of Freshwater Pearls. Our Chinese Freshwater Pearls are farmed in the Fuchum, Wu and Ling Rivers of the Zhejiang province in southern China. China has successfully concentrated on Freshwater Pearls using not oysters but freshwater clams. The humble clam, while not as widely celebrated as its cousin the oyster, is equally capable of producing high-quality Pearls.

Tahitian Pearls

Tahitian Pearls are from French Polynesia and are named after the tropical island of Tahiti. Grown in the large black-lipped saltwater oyster (Pinctada Margaritifera), Tahitian Pearls are celebrated for their exceptional beauty.

Tahiti’s pure and tranquil waters are the ideal cultivation grounds for the dramatic Tahitian Pearl.

Tahitian legend says that Te Ufi (Pinctada Margaritifera) was given to man by Oro, the god of peace and fertility, who came to earth on a rainbow and offered the Pearl to the beautiful princess Bora Bora as a sign of eternal love.

First appearing in Europe in 1845, Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugenie was responsible for bringing Tahitian Pearls into fashion. After the fall of Napoleon, Empress Eugenie’s necklace was auctioned at Christies for $20,000. “Ezra” was the most famous natural Tahitian Pearl, the centerpiece of a necklace that was part of the Russian crown jewels.

Tahitian Black Pearls are prized and admired throughout the world. The first Pearl farms were established on the atoll of Hikueru and the island of Bora Bora in the early 1960’s. Exports began in 1972 and production was subsequently expanded on the islands of Marutea Sud and Mangareva. Today, Tahitian Black Pearls are cultivated in Pearl farms in a sprawling group of atolls and islands in French Polynesia, primarily the lagoons of the Tuamotu-Gambier Archipelago.

Tahitian Pearls generally range in size from 8 millimeters to 16 millimeters and consist of many thousands of layers of Aragonite (a variety of calcium carbonate). In contrast to many other Pearl varieties, Tahitian Pearls are cultured for 4 – 5 years and have a nacre thickness of 3 – 10 millimeters.

Tahitian Pearls display a shimmering orient or overtone that is green, blue, pink or violet in color. These orient colors are in striking contrast to their silver to black body color and are sometimes given specific names (e.g., deep green is called “fly wing,” “peacock” for the combination of green and pink, and “eggplant” is a dark toned body color combined with pink).

South Sea Pearls

Highly coveted, South Sea Pearls come from Australia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Cultured in varieties of Pinctada Maxima, this large, warm-water loving, gold and silver-lipped oyster produces Pearls of fabulous colors.

PEARL June’s birthstone
Origins Australia, China, Indonesia, Japan, Philippines & Tahiti
Colors Found Black, cream, gold, golden yellow, gray, orange, pink, silver & white
Family Organics
Hardness 2.50 – 4.50
Refractive Index 1.52 – 1.66
Relative Density 2.60 – 2.85
Source: GemsTV.com